Kraków’s Old World Charn

Kraków is a city layered with history, beauty, and charm. It was Poland's only major city to escape World War II virtually intact, preserving its Old World vibes. The Nazis claimed it was an ancient German city and wanted it saved.

We did a lot today, absorbing Kraków's sights, foods, and drinks; the tourist area is compact enough to walk to just about everything of interest in less than 15 minutes. Krakow's picture-perfect Old Town seamlessly blends a rich mix of European architectural styles amid a jumble of cobbled streets, churches and palaces, and medieval sights. At each sight Scott kept joking, "is this a church or a castle?"

We are starting today at Wawel Castle, a complex on a hill with a historic castle, museum, and Poland's National church (like England's Westminster Abbey). We just walked around to view it from the outside.

Perched on a hill overlooking the Vistula River, Wawel Castle tells the story of royal legacy, cultural endurance, and quiet resilience

The cathedral's hodge-podge exterior is a mix of 5 different architectural styles resulting from various periods and influences

Below the castle, Wawel Dragon (Smok Wawelski) breathes fire every few minutes, keeping alive one of Poland's most beloved folk tales. (He is hibernating today.)

Back in the main square, we went to visit St Mary's Basilica, a 14th century church ornately decorated in blue and gold. The ceremonial opening of its colorful Veit Stoss Triptych altarpiece is once a day at 11:50 (later on Sundays).

The church is absolutely gorgeous! Stare up into St Mary's mesmerizing starry blue ceiling.

Greg's tour guide failed to tell him that the best was yet to come … the triptych ceremonial opening!

The remarkable details of the triptych altarpiece make it one of the best medieval woodcarvings in existence

Of course if you follow my blogs then you know I'm not going to miss climbing up the Bugle Tower (of the 2 towers, it is the taller tower on the left). Though connected to St. Mary's church, it is actually the municipal watchtower, from where they once stood lookout for attacks and fires. We timed our climb to be at the top on the hour for what turned out to be one of the coolest experiences of the trip! Every hour on the hour, for many centuries, the 'Hejnał Mariacki' (bugle call) is played by a trumpeter to commemorate a Polish bugler who, while warning the city of a Tatar attack, was lethally hit by an arrow in his throat. In his memory, today the hejnał stops suddenly mid-note.

Watching the bugler play the hourly hejnał from a foot away was so exciting!

271 stairs up the Bugler Tower offers the best view of Market Square

For lunch we found a "milk bar" (bar mleczny in Polish) - a type of cafeteria that came about during the communist era, providing affordable and government-subsidized traditional Polish meals.

Milkbar Tomasza's lunch of the day, a full meal including a big bowl of soup for only $10

Rynek Główny, the Main Market Square, is the heart of Krakow's Old Town, and it is one of the largest medieval and most delightful squares in Europe. Choose a café and absorb the gorgeously intact buildings and atmosphere around the busy square.

What you get when you ask Greg to take a picture

Enjoying some drinks in an outdoor café - Szał Café is on the upper level of the Cloth Market in the center of Market Square

From Market Square, at the end of Florianska Street is St. Florian's Gate, one of the few remaining parts of the medieval fortifications that surrounded the city

Replacing the moat with trees during the 19th century, Planty Park stretches two and a half miles around the perimeter of Kraków's Old Town

In the afternoon we walked to Kazimierz, the Jewish District, for some local treats. We went to Wódka Café Bar to sample a vodka flight (and then some). Scott chose the craft flight, adding some samples of flavored vodka: Gooseberry, Chopin chocolate, and salted caramel (mmmmmm!)

Conveniently the vodka bar is next to Plac Nowy's Okrąglak (Rotunda) and its hole-in-the-wall food windows. It is the prime place in Krakow to taste 'zapiekanki', a Polish street food at its finest. It is best described as a crispy half-baguette, slathered in melted cheese, sautéed mushrooms, (or other toppings), and drizzled with your choice sauce.

There are many different vendors to choose from. We did window #N8 - Zapiekanki Piecyk - for its favorable reviews. As Scott commented, "They've all got to be the same," I heard another nearby person say, "I think they are all different". (This was definitely the most concentrated area of English speaking tourists we found in Poland.)

A sampling of the graffiti found on all the surfaces in Kazimierz

We weren't quite done with the day's exploration. Bernatek Footbridge, an artistic bridge at the edge of Kazimierz, is known for its 9 acrobatic sculptures.

Polish sculptor Jerzy Kędziora is famous for his gravity-defying figures - appearing to balance delicately on wires stretching across the sky.

After finding room in our bellies for some chimney cakes filled with ice cream, we finally headed back to the apartment. "It was a good day," I heard Scott tell Greg, over a beer at the kitchen table. We leave Poland tomorrow. Krakow is one of the most popular domestic destinations. It is our favorite too!